If you wish to do the job right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and in fact see what's going on. When upon a time, this involved costs considerable cash. Now there are most likely half a dozen out there that are eminently inexpensive. Without a borescope, you're working blind.
It is two different tasks. Initially, you get to handle powder fouling. Second, you have to remove copper fouling. Only then are you done. There are all sorts of quality gun-cleaning items out there. Here is a list of what I use. J Dewey nylon-coated cleansing rods. They are available in.
Take your spot rod, and put 3 solvent spots up the bore. When it does, follow with a dry patch.
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(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. You will regret it.) If you see no copper, or just a faint wash of copper occasionally, you're done. If you see gobs and gouts and lumps and streaks, it's back to the J-B.
If you do not have a borescope, run a solvent spot up the bore and let it sit, muzzle a little down, for a couple of hours. Run another solvent patch through, and if it comes out clean, you're done, but if it has green or blue discolorations, back to the J-B.
As a guideline, the more you spend on a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will foul. Every barrel fouls to one degree or another. I've had one or 2 cases where a barrel unexpectedly started to group as I reached the end of the process, but I've had far more break-ins that made no difference at all.
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They work, often, but if you forget and leave the things in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore however good, and considering that I'm at the age where I forget stuff, I'm reluctant to take the chance. Also, they're hell on stock surfaces. With a bolt-action, go easy on the Break-Free.
Take a hint from the military, whose lives depend on their firearms going bang. They want them spotless. And spotless is a great way to go.
The actions to appropriately clean your rifle depend upon whether you are doing a field stripping or complete disassembly. We'll cover standard field stripping in this post. Due to the variety of rifles, total disassembly of the firearm aren't within the scope of this article. This is the most vital action in the whole cleaning procedure.
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Using a cleaning tool, such as a energy brush or cleaning up swabs, and get rid of any loose particles that might be discovered within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber. Heavy fouling can be gotten rid of with a light application of cleaner and permitting it to sit for a few minutes prior to brushing.
One typical myth is that more is much better when it comes to lubrication of your gun.
Soak a couple patches in this solvent and run them down the barrel. Permit it to sit, and keep in mind that getting rid of copper can take a while.
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If the patch comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Costs Buckley Note: There's a lot of talk about how these copper solvents can harm your bore.
What you don't desire is to let any ammonia solvent dry out therein. So once you're satisfied that the copper is gone, run a number of dry patches down the bore, followed by a number of patches that have actually been damp with a regular cleansing solvent. Run three or 4 dry patches down the bore to eliminate any staying solvent.